How to Remove an Old Lawn Before Turfing

Why You Can't Just Turf Over Old Grass

It's tempting to save time by laying new turf directly on top of the existing lawn. Don't. Here's what happens:

• The old grass underneath dies and decomposes, creating a spongy, unstable layer between the new turf and the soil
• The new turf can't root through the decomposing layer properly, so it stays loose and lifts easily
• Drainage is compromised — water sits in the decaying layer and rots the new turf roots
• The surface becomes uneven as the old material breaks down at different rates

For a more detailed look at this, see our guide on laying turf on old grass. The short version: remove it first.

Method 1: Turf Cutter (Fastest)

A turf cutter is a machine that slices horizontally beneath the grass, lifting strips of turf complete with roots and a thin layer of soil. You can hire one from most tool hire shops.

How to Do It

1. Mow the existing lawn short — this makes the turf cutter easier to handle and produces thinner strips
2. Set the cutting depth to about 30–40mm — deep enough to get below the root zone but shallow enough not to remove too much topsoil
3. Work in straight lines across the lawn. The machine does most of the work — you just guide it
4. Roll up or stack the stripped turf (see composting section below)
5. Rotavate the exposed soil, add topsoil if needed, level and firm. See our soil preparation guide for the full process

Pros

• Fast — you can strip a typical garden lawn in a few hours
• Clean result — you're left with bare soil ready for preparation
• No chemicals involved
• You can lay new turf on the same day or within the same week

Cons

• You lose 30–40mm of topsoil with the old turf (you may need to replace this)
• Turf cutters are heavy to manoeuvre, especially on slopes or in tight spaces
• Hire cost (typically thirty to sixty pounds per day)

Method 2: Glyphosate (Most Thorough)

Glyphosate is a systemic weedkiller that kills everything it touches — grass, weeds, the lot. It's absorbed through the leaves and transported to the roots, so it kills the entire plant, not just the top growth.

How to Do It

1. Don't mow for at least a week before spraying — you want as much leaf surface as possible for the chemical to land on
2. Spray the entire lawn with a glyphosate-based weedkiller (available at any garden centre). Use a knapsack sprayer or watering can with a fine rose for even coverage
3. Wait 2–3 weeks. The grass will yellow, then brown, then die completely. Don't be tempted to rush this — if you dig too early, surviving roots will regrow
4. Rotavate the dead material into the soil. It will decompose in place and add organic matter
5. Rake, level, and firm the soil. Proceed with standard turf preparation

Pros

• Kills everything including deep-rooted perennial weeds (dandelions, docks, couch grass) that would grow through new turf
• You don't lose any topsoil
• No heavy machinery needed

Cons

• Takes 2–3 weeks before you can start ground preparation — add this to your timeline
• Chemical treatment (some people prefer to avoid it)
• Glyphosate doesn't work below about 8°C, so it's less effective in late autumn/winter
• You may need a second application for persistent weeds

Method 3: Sheet Mulching (Chemical-Free but Slow)

Sheet mulching smothers the existing grass by blocking all light. The grass and weeds die, decompose, and become part of the soil.

How to Do It

1. Mow the lawn short
2. Cover the entire area with heavy-duty black polythene, overlapping sheets by at least 300mm so no light gets through. Alternatively, use layers of cardboard (at least 5–6 layers thick) weighted down with bricks or covered with a layer of compost
3. Wait 6–8 weeks in summer (longer in cooler months). The grass underneath dies from lack of light
4. Remove the covering and rotavate the dead material into the soil
5. Proceed with normal ground preparation

Pros

• No chemicals, no machinery
• Zero cost if you have cardboard or can source plastic sheeting

Cons

• Slow — 6–8 weeks minimum, potentially 10–12 in cooler months
• Doesn't reliably kill deep-rooted perennial weeds
• Your garden has a plastic sheet on it for two months
• Slugs and other pests can proliferate under the covering

What to Do with Old Turf

Don't skip this — stripped turf is a useful resource, not waste.

Compost It

Stack the old turf strips upside down (grass side facing down) in an out-of-the-way corner. If you have enough, build a cube about 1m x 1m x 1m. Cover with black plastic to retain moisture. In 6–12 months you'll have excellent loam — beautiful crumbly soil that's perfect for top-dressing or filling raised beds.

Skip Hire

If you don't have space to compost it, old turf goes in a green waste skip. It's heavy — a small garden's worth of turf weighs more than you'd expect. Don't underestimate the skip size you'll need.

Which Method Should You Choose?

• In a hurry? Turf cutter. You can strip and relay in the same week
• Battling perennial weeds? Glyphosate. It's the only method that reliably kills couch grass, bindweed, and deep-rooted docks
• Want to avoid chemicals and aren't in a rush? Sheet mulching. Plan it 2–3 months before your planned laying date
• Large area on a budget? Glyphosate. No hire costs, just a bottle of weedkiller and patience

Whatever method you choose, the important thing is that the old lawn is completely dead and removed before you start preparing the soil for new turf.