How to Re-Turf Your Garden

When Re-Turfing Makes Sense

Re-turfing means stripping the old lawn completely and laying fresh turf from scratch. It's the right approach when:

• More than half the lawn is bare, mossy, or weedy — patching and overseeding won't recover a lawn this far gone
• The surface is badly uneven — bumps, hollows, and sunken areas that make mowing difficult
• The grass species is wrong — coarse, clumpy grass that no amount of care will improve
• You've had building work — compacted subsoil, rubble, and cement dust make the existing lawn unsalvageable
• You want a fresh start — sometimes it's quicker to start over than to nurse a struggling lawn back

If only 20–30% of the lawn is damaged, repairing bare patches is cheaper and less disruptive. If the lawn is thin but the grass species is decent, overseeding may be enough.

Planning Your Re-Turf

1. Measure the Area

Measure your lawn accurately before ordering. Use our turf calculator or see our measuring guide for irregular shapes. Order 5% extra for cutting waste — 10% if your garden has curves or obstacles.

2. Choose Your Timing

The best time to re-turf is September to mid-October. The soil is still warm from summer, air temperatures are cooling (less stress on new turf), and autumn rain handles most of the watering. Spring (March–May) is the second-best window. Avoid midsummer unless you can commit to watering twice daily.

For detailed month-by-month advice, see our best time to lay turf guide.

3. Order Materials

You'll need:

• Turf — a standard hard-wearing ryegrass blend suits most gardens. See our turf types guide for alternatives
• Topsoil — if your existing soil is poor, compacted, or less than 75mm deep. See topsoil before turf
• Sharp sand or grit — for heavy clay soils that need drainage improvement
• A turf cutter — hire one for £60–80/day to strip the old lawn cleanly

Step 1: Remove the Old Lawn

This is where most DIY re-turfs go wrong. You cannot lay new turf on top of old grass — it creates a barrier that prevents root contact with the soil.

Using a turf cutter (recommended): Set the blade to 25–30mm depth. Work in rows, roll up the strips, and dispose of them. A powered turf cutter handles an average garden in 1–2 hours.

By hand: Use a flat spade to skim off the top 25–30mm of turf. This is hard graft — budget a full day for anything over 40m².

For the full process including disposal options, see our removing old lawn guide.

Step 2: Prepare the Soil

With the old lawn gone, you can see and fix the problems underneath.

1. Remove debris — stones, roots, old turf fragments, any rubble from previous work
2. Rotavate the top 100–150mm — this breaks up compaction and creates a workable tilth
3. Improve the soil — on clay, work in sharp grit. On sandy soil, add organic matter. See our soil preparation guide for your soil type
4. Add topsoil if needed — spread 40–75mm of quality topsoil and rake it into the existing surface. Don't just dump it on top — work it in so there's no sharp layer boundary
5. Level the surface — rake to a smooth, even finish. Firm by treading (shuffling across in overlapping passes) then rake again. The surface should be firm enough to walk on without sinking but not compacted
6. Final check — stand back and look for hollows or humps. Fix them now. See our levelling guide for technique

Step 3: Lay the New Turf

Lay on the day of delivery — turf deteriorates fast once cut, especially in warm weather.

1. Start along a straight edge (path, fence, or driveway)
2. Butt each roll tightly against the previous one — no gaps, no overlaps
3. Stagger the joints like brickwork
4. Work off a plank placed on the turf you've already laid to avoid compacting the prepared soil
5. Use a sharp knife to cut around edges, beds, and obstacles
6. On slopes, lay rolls horizontally across the slope. See our slope guide if relevant

For the complete laying technique, see our how to lay turf guide.

Step 4: Water and Aftercare

The first two weeks are critical.

• Water immediately after laying — soak thoroughly so the soil beneath the turf is damp
• Water daily for the first 10–14 days. In hot weather, water morning and evening
• Stay off the lawn completely for 2–3 weeks
• First mow at 3–4 weeks, once the turf has rooted (you can't lift a corner). Set the mower high — take off no more than a third of the blade length

For detailed aftercare schedules, see our watering new turf and lawn care after turfing guides.

How Much Does Re-Turfing Cost?

For a typical 60m² garden re-turf (DIY):

Professional installation adds £8–15/m² for labour. For a full price breakdown, see our turf cost guide.

Common Re-Turfing Mistakes

• Laying over old grass — the single most common mistake. Always strip the old lawn first
• Skipping soil preparation — new turf on unprepared ground looks good for a month then fails
• Not watering enough — new turf needs water every day for two weeks, no exceptions
• Re-turfing in summer without irrigation — if you can't water twice daily in July, wait until September
• Ordering too little turf — always add 5–10% for cutting waste

See our common turfing mistakes guide for more.